Camellia season will soon be upon us. Wegman’s has just received over 300 five and fifteen gallon containers of numerous varieties of Camellias. There are at least 27 different varieties. Among this immense selection, the two most common species are Camellia japonica and Camellia sasanqua. Recently, some hybrids have been introduced and the name "Camellia hybrid" plus a varietal name will appear on the name tag.
Camellia japonica is probably the most familiar to Peninsula gardeners. Japonicas have an upright growth habit (up to eight feet wide and 15 feet tall) and produce ovoid, pointed leaves three to four inches long. They generally bloom after Christmas although there are exceptions. Debutante, for example, will start to bloom about Thanksgiving and continue until almost the end of January.
Flowers can be two to four inches in diameter and come in a variety of shapes: semi-double, anemone, formal double, peony, and so on. The colors range from pure white, through pink to deepest red. There are no yellow or blue shades of any significance, although some of the flowers have yellow stamens which add to their attractiveness.
Japonica camellias grow and bloom best in filtered sun such as under birch, fringe or redbud trees. Otherwise, morning sun up to noon or late afternoon sun will work. Do not plant where they receive sun from 11 am to 4 pm.
All camellias require a porous, soil rich in humus because their roots grow close to the surface. If you are afflicted with typical Peninsula clay soil, amend the soil with about 30% to 50% organic matter such as Forest Blend or Gold Rush. This should be mixed thoroughly with the native soil to a depth of eight to ten inches. Plant the containerized plant so that the soil in the can is about one inch higher than the surrounding ground. One of the best irrigation systems is the soaker hose especially if there are numerous camellias or a mix of camellias, rhododendrons, azaleas and similar plants. A single dripper is not recommended. The soaker hose run once or twice a week for about four hours and moistening an area that will encourage a wide growth of roots is best. There are many recommendations for fertilizing camellias but the easiest to remember is to fertilize when they finish blooming, then one month later and a third time, one month after that. Use camellia, rhododendron, azalea fertilizer that contains sulfur, such as Master Nursery or Dr. Earth. If it becomes necessary to move a camellia, the best time to do so is when they are in bloom and so are most dormant.
Camellia sasanquas bloom before Christmas, usually from late September until about the middle of January. Their flowers are all singles or semi-doubles from 2 inches to 3 inches in size and much more abundant than on the japonicas. There may be so many flowers on some of the sasanquas that the foliage is almost hidden. The leaves on sasanquas are a bit smaller and more pointed than those of japonicas. Sasanqua Camellias have two growth forms; some are tall and slender while others have a low and widespread growth habit. They are much more sun tolerant than the japonicas and will tolerate all but 8 to 10 or more hours of full sun. Two or three hours of full afternoon sun will not be a problem and if planted next to japonicas in a more shaded location will still bloom well. Sasanquas have the same cultural requirements as the japonicas.
Camellia petal blight is the most annoying disorder of camellias. Japonicas seem to be more prone to the disease than the sasanquas, probably because they bloom later and right in the middle of the rainy season. The rain does not cause the browning of the petals but as it splashes, it spreads the spores to other flower buds. No sprays are available to prevent or cure the disease. White flowers seem to more susceptible than darker colors; the recommendation from the Camellia Society is to pick up and dispose of any brown colored flowers which have fallen from the shrub. Brown flower buds and blooms should also be removed from the shrub and disposed of. Do not compost any of the diseased flowers.
Aphids may sometimes cause leaf curl on some of the camellia leaves. These are easily disposed of with horticultural soap or Malathion.
Two camellia species of interest are Camellia reticulata and Camellia sinensis. C. reticulata, sometimes called the Tree Camellia can grow to over 20 feet tall and produce flowers six and seven inches in diameter. C. sinensis is the species from which tea is made. It is a small plant with handsome white flowers suitable for container planting.
All of the japonicas and sasanquas make excellent potted plants. The japonicas need at least a 20 gallon container while the sasanquas will do well in as small as a ten gallon container. Pot up in a top grade potting soil such as Gardener’s Gold and fertilize lightly each month with Master Nursery Camellia, Azalea, Gardenia and Rhododendron Fertilizer or the Dr. Earth equivalent. A pair of potted sasanqua camellias called Yuletide, one on each side of an entryway door, make a very high end decorative statement for the holiday season. Yuletide is a tall, slender plant with dark green leaves and bright red flower petals surrounding a mass of yellow stamens.
Among the 300 camellias are 28 different varieties. These include bushes, espaliers, and patio tree forms. If you are going to have only one camellia, Mr. Ed would recommend Debutante (pictured at the top of this article), a long blooming, soft pink, hard japonica. Other japonicas include Kramer’s Supreme with deep red ruffled petal flowers; Magnoliflora with soft white petals and short yellow stamens; and Carter’s Sunburst a soft pink with flecks and stripes of cerise. In addition to Yuletide, other sasanquas include the dark pink, upright Bonanza; the low-growing pink Showa-No-Sake and the hybrid, Coral Delight, a pink, low-growing camellia. There is a camellia for everyone. They are not difficult to care for and can be expected to last 50 years!
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