Dahlias are one of our best summertime cut flowers. They look best in large groups by themselves or as a background for summer annuals such as cosmos, bachelor buttons, pincushion flowers and zinnias. Otherwise, Dahlias may be relegated to the cutting garden out in the 'back forty' where few people see them but, you are free to cut them as you see fit and when you want them for bouquets for your home. Many people have forgotten that cutting gardens were once a mainstay of the home garden and a place set aside to provide flowers for the household.

Dahlia flowers come in many sizes, shapes and colors. Some people are partial to the large "dinner plate" or "cactus" forms which have flowers up to ten inches in diameter and six or seven feet tall. At the other end of the size scale are the two-inch pom pon forms which grow from a two or three foot plant mound. In between are flower forms between four and six inches in diameter with shapes like daisies, anemones or peonies. Colors may be solid or bicolor with every color and shade represented except true blues. Purple, yes but no blue.

Dahlias grow best in well-draining soil with a hefty percent of organic matter. Our heavy clay soils need to be amended with well-aged compost such as Gold Rush or Bumper Crop. If you have a bed dedicated to dahlias, spread two to three inches of amendment, 10 pounds of gypsum and 2 pounds of Master Start per 100 square feet over the area and dig or roto-til it all in to a depth of eight inches.

For the large flowering "dinner plate" or "cactus" dahlias, dig holes 14 inches deep and two-and-one-half to three feet apart. Put two inches of the soil amendment mix into the holes and drive a stake, six feet by one inch by one inch, off center into each of the holes. Place your dahlia tuber in the bottom of the hole, sprout up, facing the stake, and cover it with three inches of soil. As the plant grows and pushes through the soil, add another three inches of soil and continue until the plant has reached the soil level in the bed. Then, when the plants are six to eight inches tall (above ground) pinch off all but one or two of the strongest shoots. When these shoots have three sets of leaves, pinch off the tips about one-quarter inch above the third set of leaves. Planting big dahlias this deep and tying them to a stake gives the plant good support and prevents them from falling over. Smaller dahlias can be planted so that the tubers are covered with three inches of soil and will probably not need staking.

Water the plants as needed. Be sure that when the big dahlias are irrigated, the water goes down at least 16 inches. One application of Master Nursery Rose and Flower Food about six weeks after planting should be enough to give you beautiful blooms.

For a border or in your annual bed, you can use dwarf dahlias which come in the usual colors and look like double daisies. The dwarf variety only gets to be 10 or 12 inches tall. Not big enough for cut flowers.

Just about the time the flower buds are opening, the cucumber beetles (they look like lady bugs but are green and black) will show up and start to eat holes in the flowers. Spray with Sevin or Monterey Garden Insect Spray when you first see them.

Later in the season, mildew is a common problem. If you spray with sulfur or Daconil at the first sign of mildew and then every 10 days or so, you can keep it under control. Some gardeners will say that since it is close to the end of the season, just let them go. Use a spading fork or shovel to loosen all the soil around the mass of tubers; pry the soil and tubers out of the ground with care. Gently remove tubers out of the ground and carefully remove any of the loose soil around the outside of the tubers.

In early fall, when the plants have stopped blooming and the foliage is all yellow, cut the plants off about six inches above ground level. You can leave the tubers in the ground for one growing season but then they will have to be dug and replanted the following spring. Use a spading fork or shovel to loosen all the soil around the mass of tubers. Carefully pry the soil and tubers out of the ground, carefully remove tubers from the ground and carefully remove any of the loose soil around the outside of the tubers. Place the root balls in boxes and cover with sawdust or Forest Blend and leave them in an unheated garage or shed. Sprinkle water on the covered tubers just to keep things moist, not wet. In the spring, check to see if any eyes have started to sprout. No sprouts will come from the tubers. The sprouts come only from the stem attached to a tuber. Cut the stems with its sprouts and one to several attached tubers and replant as before.

When you cut your dahlias for cut flowers indoors, do so when the blooms are almost completely open, in the early morning or evening. Place them immediately into 3 to 5 inches of hot water and let them remain there until the water cools or over night. Then, place in a vase of cool water to a depth at least one-half of the length of the stem. Be sure to remove any foliage which would be under water. Adding some "Florel" to the water will extend their life.

Now, enjoy your dahlias.

It is easy to see why this plant is sometimes called Rabbit Ears and the bloom is described as a pineapple. The colorful "ears" are actually sterile bracts. Spanish lavender is probably what the ancient Greeks and Romans used to scent their bath water. Indeed the word Lavender is from Latin lavare (to wash).

Spanish lavender displays fragrant rich royal purple flowers on spikes above the blue-gray foliage from late winter into early summer. This is an easy-care Mediterranean shrub for borders and gardens. Place within reach for everyone to enjoy.

Plant Facts: Full sun. Dense, mounding form 20 to 28 inches high, 18 to 36 inches wide. Follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season to establish a deep, extensive root system. Feed with Master Nursery Formula 49 or Rose and Flower Food before new growth begins in spring. Spanish lavender blooms profusely in the spring; when it finishes, give it a good pruning. The result will be an attractive, fragrant, gray-green shrub throughout the rest of the year.

If you think of herbs as wild plants, think again. Herbs have undergone centuries of selection and although less formal and showy than common garden flowers, have a presence all their own. Incorporated into the garden or landscape design and given modest attention and grooming, they can be among the most beautiful plants in the garden. If you want to incorporate herbs in the landscape, start with a basic book such as Ortho’s All About Herbs.

More than just an attractive feature in the garden, herbs have multiple uses as seasonings, teas and tisanes, garnishes, fragrances, dyes, cosmetics, and medicines. Many of the herbs grown today as ornamentals were valued originally for medicinal or ritual uses and are cloaked in folklore and superstition. Additionally, most herbs attract both pollinating and predatory beneficial insects into the yard which play an important role in integrated pest management.

Herbs can be utilized in garden design be treating them as you would other annuals, perennials and shrubs; that is, sort them by height and spread, perennial or evergreen, time of flower, if desired, and longevity (e.g., annual or perennial). Herbs also make excellent container plants, an important feature if garden space is restricted or if plants need to be portable. Make sure you water more frequently in containers as they dry out faster.

Many herbs are actually small perennial shrubs which do well in containers. Among these are oregano, rosemary, thyme and marjoram. These should be planted in one or two gallon containers with Gardener’s Gold potting soil. Fertilize container herbs monthly, water as needed and place on the hottest place of your patio to produce the most intense flavor. Trim to shape as needed and save the trimmings by freezing in a zip-lock bag or drying in the oven.

Plant your herbs in areas that receive 4 to 6 hours of sun. Morning sun is better for annual herbs that are grown for culinary purposes. If annual herbs get too much afternoon sun, they bloom and go to seed quicker. This prevents production of useable foliage. Most perennial herbs can grow in morning or afternoon sun. Perennial herbs such as oregano or thyme produce more compact and strongly scented foliage if they receive strong afternoon sun.

Use potting soil, such as Gardener’s Gold, for potted plants or add Bumper Crop with your native soil as a 50/50 mix for planting perennial herbs in the ground. For annual herbs, use Bumper Crop or Paydirt. Use Master Nursery Master Start when planting perennial herbs. During the growing season you should feed your herbs with Master Nursery Formula 49 or, if you prefer organics, use Nurseryman’s Bumper Crop Booster or Dr. Earth Tomato, Vegetable & Herb Fertilizer. Herbs should not be over-watered. If the soil contains sufficient organic matter, keep it moist to a depth of at least 6 inches.

If insect problems develop, use Master Nursery Tomato & Vegetable Spray to control a wide range of insects with continued use. It is derived from botanical pyrethrins, so is safe to use on edible herbs. If mildew occurs, use Safer Garden Fungicide, a sulphur-based product which controls powdery mildew, black spot, leaf spot, and rust.

For more information see our Information Sheet on Herbs.

The RESCUE!® Reusable Yellowjacket Trap can be used outdoors wherever there is a yellowjacket problem. The RESCUE!® Reusable Yellowjacket Trap catches all major species of yellowjackets common to North America. We recommend the trap be placed at least 20 feet away from an outdoor activity area, such as a patio or deck. The trap should be hung, if possible, in a natural setting of bushes and trees. It’s also effective to place the trap on the perimeter of a yard or area where yellowjackets are entering. The trap should also be placed at least 20 feet away from a known yellowjacket nest. The RESCUE!® Yellowjacket Trap can be used in spring when the queen yellowjackets emerge from overwintering to look for nest sites. It can also be used in the summer and fall when the worker yellowjackets forage for food.

The next generation—Stephanie Wegman—carries on the family tradition in the garden center. Stephanie has been a CCN Pro for about 2 years. She works part-time because she is a full- time student at University of Santa Clara, working toward a business degree.

Stephanie has learned the nursery business like her father, Mark, and uncle and aunt—from the bottom up. She has a broad knowledge of both bedding and shrubbery although you will see her as a cashier at this time.